the projection fits under the header. Maneuver the window unit outward until it is about halfway out- side. The sill will now be holding the weight of the unit. Have one or two of your helpers go outside to help steady the window as you continue to push it through the opening. If there is no existing exterior support, use 2 x 4 studs as shown, Pre-cut to the anticipated length to support the outer edge of the projection as it is eased outside. Work the unit outside until the edges of the side boards, head board, and seat board are flush with the interior wall surface. Secure the outer edge of the projection with adequate support from the temporary braces. Using a level, be sure that the window sits plumb and square in the opening. Using 3” wood screws, countersunk in the sides, head, and seat, gently anchor the window unit in the opening using shims under each screw. Check the plumb, square, and level again and adjust as necessary. Then you can tighten the screws. Any Bay, Bow, or Garden Window with a projection over 8” outside the exterior siding of the house needs support brackets. If none are supplied with the unit, a pair can be cut from 2x12, or 2x10 pressure treat- ed lumber. They can then be covered with pre-fin- ished aluminum capping stock or form the base for an enclosed support, as shown. Making a Support for Bay, Bow, or Garden Windows Outside the house, set a knee brace or angled sup- port under each mullion of the window. Place the long leg of the brace against the house,and drill pilot holes through the brace into cripple studs in the wall. You can identify the location of the cripple studs after you have removed the old window. Nails in the rough sill will show where they are. If there is no cripple stud in a proper position, move the brace left or right (within reason) until it lines up correctly. The idea is to support the window, under the mul- lions, as close as possible, yet maintain a balanced, symmetrical look to the braces. If they are to be cov- ered, the symmetry is less important. Fasten the support bracket using a 3/8” lag bolt that is long enough to penetrate into the stud at least 2". Fasten the brace to the underside of the Bay or Bow unit with a wood screw of sufficient length to anchor into the seat board, but not puncture through. Using a Cable Support System Most manufacturers can supply a cable support sys- tem for Bay and Bow Windows to eliminate the need for knee brackets. Garden Windows, with glass roofs that cannot use a cable system, will still require knee brackets. If a cable support system is not available from the manufacturer, lumber and building materi- als dealers can usually supply a kit. The typical cable kit consists of two threaded pins, washers and nuts, cables, and cable anchor brack- ets. Cable support systems work easiest where there is an overhang (soffit or cantilevered floor) above the installed window. Follow the instructions supplied with the cable system. Temporary Support Shims Shims Stud Stud Window Fitters Guide to Window Installation 63 ©2022 AWDI, LLC Do not reproduce without permission SAMPLE MANUAL
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