Since they install basically the same, the final installa- tion will look great and perform under most every cir- cumstance. 1. Remove the old double-hung or slider the same as discussed in the basic installation chapter. 2. Remove any trace of sash cords, pulleys or balances so that there is a clean opening. 3. It is still advisable to use a “sill angle” to support the bottom of the Casement/Awning window. The sill must be supported if the window is being installed in an opening with a sloped sill. As long as the sill angle is mounted to the sill, 1/8- inch to 1/4-inch in from the inner edge of the blindstop, it will allow the Casement or Awning Window to rest on it and, when caulked, it will effectively block out air and moisture penetration. 4. Caulk the inner edge of the blindstop on the sides and top, and insert the Casement or Awning Window. 5. The window should be carefully shimmed to maintain level. It is important to apply the shims under the bottom corners of the window only. This will avoid bowing the frame which might interfere with the operation of the window. Shims should be minimal thickness,and non-tapered. 6. Once the window is leveled with shims under the bot- tom corners as needed, then the top left or right corners can be shimmed to plumb and square the window. To shim easily, keep the sash closed and locked. This will square the window and allow it to be shimmed square in the frame. 7. Once the window is shimmed plumb and square, the supplied screws can be applied through the sides and top jambs. 8. The Interior stops can be re-applied and the window caulked as necessary. Mount the operating han- dle, and tighten the set screw. 9. The exterior of the opening (the brickmould casing and blindstop) can be re-painted to finish the exterior and make it weather tight. Make sure that beads of caulk are placed against the exterior of the sill, the sill angle, and where the window meets the blindstop. Removing the Stool if Necessary The stool rises about 1/2” above the sill. In order to install the window without removing the stool, the win- dow might have to be made 3/4”-7/8” less than the measured height of the opening. That might present problems sealing the opening to the weather, and make the finished installation look odd. Window Fitters Guide to Window Installation 56 ©2022 AWDI, LLC Do not reproduce without permission If the properly sized window is too snug to fit over the stool, the window can be installed against the blindstops by removing the stool. The stool and Interior stops can be replaced with new ones, or the old ones re- applied after the window is installed. Clearance under the handle of the operator is sufficient to allow re-application of a stool. “Outside In” Installation If the height of the Casement/Awning Window type is too snug to properly place the window in the opening from inside the house without removing the stool, the window can be installed in the opening - “outside-in”. This is technique that will require access to the open- ing from outside the house. Though the window can be passed out of the opening from the inside before it is set in place, the easier, and safer method is to set the win- dow in place from the outside. NOTE: Refer to "Outside-In Installation" Section in this book for specific instructions. Installation in Openings Made from Steel or Aluminum Windows For openings made when aluminum sliders or steel casement are removed, the installation of the vinyl Casement or Awning can be done from the inside. Using the old window frame as stops, or applying new stops of furring or 1" x 1" stock, the new window can be mounted against these “stops”. Caulk the blindstops before installing. The interior is trimmed with new casing and new interior stops. When the old opening is trimmed with casing and space permits, new interior stops are all that’s necessary to trim and seal the opening. SAMPLE MANUAL
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