Window Fitters Guide to Window Installation 39 ©2022 AWDI, LLC Do not reproduce without permission Frame Out - Destructive Tear Out Metal Windows Metal windows are often buried behind siding that was installed during new construction or a previous remodel of the home. “J” Channel was used to finish the newer siding, and cutting back everything to expose the window’s fin can be an expensive approach. If the decision is for a Frame-Out, then a “destructive” Frame-Out may be the only alternative. This method is best when there is a large overhang or other architectural element on the home to limit the amount of direct rainfall on the new window. The operable sash and any fixed panels of glass are removed down to the old frame - sill, header and jambs. A pry bar is used to get under the sill, and using a wood block to avoid damage to the interior finish, the sill of the old window is pried up, the header pried down, and the jambs in from the side. This collapses the window into the opening so it can be removed. Prying the old frame, in essence, tears the mounting fin of the old window out of the space between the framing and the siding - destroying the continuity of the old flashing. It is imperative that some continuity be restored using liquid flashing, or adhesive-backed flashing to repair the opening. A drip cap and some functional sill pan should be created. “Cover” the 4 sides with cel- lular pvc of MDF board, which is sealed to the old opening. The bottom line is to be sure that water is diverted, drained and dried to effect a weather resistive installation. Liquid Flashing on exposed edges Drip Cap Cellular pvc “blocking” for support Adhesive-backed flashing integrated with existing flashing Adhesive-backed flashing for effective sill pan Compressed Foam Tape Pry-Out Old Frame Using Wood Block to Prevent Trim Damage Whether it’s stucco, panel or lapped siding, prying out of the old frame is basically the same, requiring similar repairs. SAMPLE MANUAL
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